st Guys on Bikes 2004: Day 69: West Yellowstone, MONTANA!

Guys on Bikes 2004

Monday, August 30, 2004

Day 69: West Yellowstone, MONTANA!

I'm on the clock at Strozzi's Internet Lounge in West Yellowstone. A very chic place to write from, but oh the pressure!

We almost left Dubois after my last post, but then we decided that we might need some gloves. It turned out to be a very wise decision. We knocked on the door of the local outfitter, but no answer ... of course some dude on the second floor hollered down that it was closed, and then invited us up to coffee while he ate his lunch. He owned a chainsaw store next door that sold gloves... we didn't end up buying any, but it made for an interesting story. We asked about the sub-zero weather, and he said it was VERY unusual. What a relief!

From Dubois we pressed on to Togwotee Pass. We never made it. We stopped at Pinnacle Campground about 8 miles from the top of the pass. Unfortunately there was no gasoline because the pumps were closed, the restaurant was closed for the winter, and the store was also closed for no good reason at all. The guys on bikes were in a pinch. We devoured a good portion of the energy bars you fans have sent us, which were sustaining but perhaps not the most exciting dinner we'd eaten. We asked the person running the campground if he would sell us some food, and about 10 minutes later came back with hot dogs, doritos, cup o' noodles and 8 cokes. This was the kind of food we were used to! We gladly paid the $100 he wanted. I mean $10.

We froze that night - when we woke up there was a sheet of ice INSIDE the tent from our breath. It was the coldest morning we'd had on the trip. We SCRAPED off our tents, packed up and headed towards the pass. As we crossed over, we caught sight of some snowflakes coming down. This was still AUGUST, mind you! As we descended from the pass, a transformation took place. The sun started to shine and the wind was actually at our backs. We looked at our odometers in disbelief. We stopped at Togwotee Lodge for a reality check and some snacks and pressed on towards Hatchett where we were told they had burgers. It wasn't on the map, but we went for it.

Hatchett has some of the greatest people we met in Wyoming. Dustin was our server and couldn't believe how much we ate. It was one of only two real meals in the last couple days, and we were ravenous. He felt so sorry for us that when there was a mistake in ordering and he ended up with an extra order of chicken fingers, he brought them to our table on the house. We must have looked pretty pathetic. We struck up a conversation with an interesting fellow named Don sitting at a nearby table. He was on vacation, doing everything from hunting to water colors. At the end of the gorging, Dustin came over with our check and the money we had given him and told us Don had paid for our meal. This was quite a treat and honor, but even more so on this occasion as it was probably the most gigantic lunch we'd had the whole trip. We felt like God was raining down blessings after the wind and rain and weather we'd been facing. Thank you Don!

Full stomachs and happy hearts caught their first glimpse of the Tetons. We thought we had seen them, but those were just random mountains with snow on top. When you see the Tetons, you KNOW they are the Tetons. Sharp peaks towering a mile over your head and snow capped dragon's teeth. It was a powerful moment.

We rode with the Tetons in sight the whole way to Signal Mountain. We debated and prayed about where to stay that evening, and in the end decided on Signal Mountain. It was an incredibly great choice. The Tetons were the backdrop behind a pristine lake with round rock shores. We met a couple girls, Carlin and Taylor, at the campground and decided to split a site. A fantastic choice. Then we decided to swim in Jackson Lake. A questionable choice, it was COLD. If Daveyray and I hadn't swam and washed up there, we would have broken the non-shower record.

We devoured spaghetti that evening and met our neighbor, Matt. He was a ranger at Yellowstone for a number of years and had some great advice as well as camp food to share. Daveyray, Carlin, Taylor and myself decided to hike up to Solitude Lake the next day while Jonathan and Johnny took a day off at Signal Mountain. Unfortunately we got held up by traffic in the morning - they wouldn't let cyclists through and required us to ride in a pickup truck at the head of the traffic line. Tell us twice! We felt like kings, but missed Matt for the hike in the morning. Matt, we wished we could have hiked with you! It was incredible.

So Day 67 started with a hike up from Jenny Lake to Solitude Lake. Taylor drove us to the trailhead, otherwise we never would have made it on our bikes. It was a fantastic hike - the Tetons were spectacular, we saw three moose, Solitude Lake was like something out of a dream, and on the hike back we saw an incredible sunset and then the moon came up and shone on the lake. God's creation in full effect. Taylor and Carlin were great company, two really interesting girls on their own cross country trips. Carlin heading to Seattle to start something new and Taylor visiting her brother in Montana.

We got back to the campsite really late, but not too late to explore the hot springs nearby. What a treat after a long day of hiking.

Day 68 started with pancakes. We took a lazy morning to get ready, and discussed our route with Taylor and Carlin. Carlin was going the same way and offered to take our BOB bags to our campsite and drop them off. SPECTACULAR!

We said goodbye to our new friends and headed out into the construction again. I think they are repaving all of Yellowstone. We got a four mile bonus out of the ride in the pickup truck and started out towards Madison, WY. We entered Yellowstone and enjoyed bison, Old Faithful, hot springs, elk and deer. It was a great day riding through the park. I think all the guys were in awe of the beautiful country we live in.

Johnny and I got hung up watching about 50 buffalo graze, and then held up even further when his tire went flat almost in sight of Madison campground. It was dark and late when we put the rice and stew together for dinner. Still a great day.

I wiped out last night riding back to the campground from the payphones. I'm alright, but my bike took a beating. Luckily we reached a bike shop today in West Yellowstone and I was able to do some repairs as well as tune up mine and Johnny's bike. The bike shop here let me use their shop to work on both of our bikes.
Thank God that I wasn't hurt and my bike was rideable. He's watching over us.

We entered Montana around noon today. State number eight out of ten! We're really getting there...

Johnny lost his wallet in West Yellowstone and couldn't find it. While he was looking all over, a big camper pulled up and said "Are you-" and Johnny yelled "YES" and hugged the lady. I hope she was alright. She said she had just found his wallet and was looking at his license when he showed up. She said she was surprised it was really him, she was looking for the nerd in the picture.

So now we're tuned up, fed, and ready to roll to our next campsite at West Fork River. The Lord has been blessing us right and left with kind people who are helping us.

As for the next and LAST mail drop -

Try to mail by Friday, September 3. If it's late, we'll have them forward it on to us up the road!

General Delivery c/o Ryan Hartford (or your favorite Guy on a Bike)
Grangeville Post Office
Grangeville, ID 83530

4 Comments:

  • Hey John (and GUYS):
    What a great read!!! We are loving your "BLOG"--I think it could be a best seller! I've decided rather than Sea Isle City next year, we're heading WEST for vacation!! Seriously, this is so much fun--it truly is the next best thing to being there!
    Here's to the "wind at your back."
    As always, you are in our prayers,
    Love, Aunt Kath

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 6:37 PM  

  • Hey John (and GUYS):
    What a great read!!! We are loving your "BLOG"--I think it could be a best seller! I've decided rather than Sea Isle City next year, we're heading WEST for vacation!! Seriously, this is so much fun--it truly is the next best thing to being there!
    Here's to the "wind at your back."
    As always, you are in our prayers,
    Love, Aunt Kath

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 6:38 PM  

  • dudes, you rock. almost there. you now have a tailwind. good news: prediction from the weathertower: HURRICANE FRANCES WILL NOT COME WEST AND AFFECT YOU. IT WILL STAY ON THE EASTERN SEABOARD. so things should be looking up. aren't the tetons beautiful? i was there about 30 years ago. still remember them like it was yesterday. how bout snake river? check out that thing and if you have a day off, go rafting down it. so fun. have you bumped into a buffalo named bill? i met him once by the side of the road. those guys live a long time, so I'm sure he's still alive. as you bike down the road, try hollering out, "Bill, Bill." see if he turns up somewhere. he was really nice. i want to mail you something but it wont go out til fri sept 3 in mail. i just got your address on thursday. i hope you mean it must be mailed by friday as you said in the upate, not arrive by friday. by the way, i'm sorry to hear that the pumps at the gas station in pinnacle were closed and that you have had to resort to drinkning gasoline. it doesnt go down to well, does it? okay, i can just hear JK's reaction when the lady found his wallet. and the hug he gave her... she must have been made into a pancake by him. in fact, i think i heard his screaming all the way back here at home. suggestion: maybe add a counter to the web site for number of times JK has lost his wallet. let me guess, it's in the 4 figures already. speaking of people who go long time without showers, ryan, you and D.R. can't break JK's record in college. he didnt ever shower you know. i mean why shower when you're in the swimming pool every day??? the chlorine is better than soap, right? well, things at home are settled, pending hurricane this sun/monday (remnants for Frances). Frances is arriving to hail Ritchie's 30th bday. see if you can bring BR and Trixie some bison home to celebrate when you guys return. Tom remains at the republican convention serving as some lady's escort or something. he said it was work related... we seem to link it's a little shady. he says he's just being paid to introduce her to the congress people there. summer is winding down. weather is nice and cool here... 80 and sunny all week. maybe that's why it's cool out there. nerm is still on a boat. nate is spending time with the girls as usual. so brandon and i are the only real one left around to hold things together. well, sounds like you guys are having fun. we're all jealous here... not jealous of the bicycle seat sized callouses you must have on your butts right now, but of all the fun and adventure you're having. we continue to miss you guys. finish safe. get back safe. we're praying for you here (i mean there but here). -signed, the mayor

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 11:10 AM  

  • oops... i see you that you already have a counter for JKs wallet losing episodes. you guys are brighter than i thought. -- mayor

    By Anonymous Anonymous, at 11:12 AM  

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